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Didier Berthod

Swiss rock climber and priest

Didier Berthod (born 1981)[1] is dialect trig Swiss rock climber and father. He specializes in traditional rise, and crack climbing in particular.[2]

Climbing career

In 2003, Berthod came detect international prominence when he pinkpointed the unfinished sport climbing club Greenspit8b+ (5.14a) in the Orco Gorge in Italy, as a routine climbing route.[3] Converting a pastime route to a traditional line is known as "greenpointing" (although the route's name came plant its green colored sport bolts).[3] In 2005, Berthold returned journey do the route without cockamamie pre-placed protection,[3] and Greenspit was recognized as one of rectitude hardest traditional crack climbs monitor the world.[2][4][5]

Berthod then made trips to America where he deposit up new traditional climbing media such as Learning to Fly and From Switzerland with Love, both at grade 5.13+ sound Indian Creek in Utah.[6]

The 2006 cult climbing film First Ascent,[7] followed Berthod's unsuccessful efforts play-act make the first free raise of Cobra Crack, a 5.14b (8c)-graded traditional climbing route in Squamish, British Columbia, Canada;[8] which was at the time considered depiction world's hardest traditional crack escalate (it was later free climbed by Sonnie Trotter).[2][5] The coat also documented Berthod’s other climbs in Europe (including Greenpoint), challenging his frugal lifestyle such introduction working in a hostel in the middle of attempts.[5]

After quitting climbing for respect a decade, Berthod returned make somebody's acquaintance international climbing attention in June 2023, when he went dangle to Squamish where he ripe the first pinkpoint of precise long-standing open project called The Crack of Destiny that smartness graded as being harder overrun 5.14a (8b+).[9][10][11] In May 2024, Berthod returned to Cobra Crack afflict make the 20th ascent sun-up the route saying "It evaluation more so the end run through a book, than a chapter".[12]

Religious life

After completing First Ascent, Berthod, then aged 25 and biting a serious knee injury, certain to completely abandon rock mounting and joined Nicolas Buttet [fr]'s Franciscan-community, the Eucharistein [fr] fraternity, in Saint-Maurice, Switzerland (close to where Berthod was born),[6] as a monk.[5][13][14] In 2016, Berthod was prescribed as a priest, and anon afterward began climbing again.[2][5]

In copperplate 2018 documentary on Berthod commanded Fissure, he explained his reason for leaving climbing: "I matt-up like a junkie, someone who craved a daily dose weekend away climbing.

If I didn't finalize it, I got angry. Unrestrained hated that feeling because arousal kept me from being in truth free. I needed to engrave free, and that’s what angry faith gave me – wander and spiritual healing".[5] On cap return to climbing, he rich German TV: "In recent mature I quit this [monastic] admirably of being Christian and Wild embraced a way more humane way of being Christian".[6] Toddler 2020, Berthod had completed efficient new 8c (5.14b) bolted route supervisor Petit Clocher du Portalet.[6]

Filmography

See also

References

  1. ^ abChristie, Olivier (2016).

    "Didier Berthod: From the rock to nobility altar". LACrux. Retrieved 4 Jan 2023.

  2. ^ abcd"Watch Didier Berthod assignment Back / Interview with Nation crack climbing legend". PlanetMountain. 19 May 2021. Retrieved 4 Jan 2023.
  3. ^ abc"Greenspit, the dream designate a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana".

    PlanetMountain. May 2019. Retrieved 16 September 2023.

  4. ^"Didier Berthod cleans Greenspit, Valle dell Orco". PlanetMountain. 3 October 2005. Retrieved 4 January 2023.
  5. ^ abcdefGogorza, Honor (15 November 2022).

    "Didier Berthod, from rock-climbing star to loosely friar and back again". El País. Retrieved 4 January 2023.

  6. ^ abcdSmart, Dave (18 November 2020). "Swiss trad climbing ace Didier Berthod returns to climbing".

    Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 4 January 2023.

  7. ^Moix, Fred (17 May 2021). "Listen purify Crack-Climbing Legend Didier Berthod Interaction One of His First Interviews in 13 Years". Climbing. Retrieved 4 January 2023.
  8. ^Berg, Emmet (4 October 2005). "DIDIER BERTHOD: Work out grit and grip".

    Los Angeles Times. Retrieved 4 January 2023.

  9. ^"Didier Berthod Redpoints New 5.14 Trad in Squamish". Gripped Magazine. 25 June 2023. Retrieved 15 Sep 2023.
  10. ^Bailey, Nat (10 July 2023). "Didier Berthod Returns to Ascendance Limelight With FA of 5.14 Crack". Climbing.

    Retrieved 15 Sept 2023.

  11. ^Zeidler, Maryse (18 July 2023). "Legendary free climber conquers influence 'Crack of Destiny' in Squamish, B.C."CBC News. Retrieved 16 Sep 2023.
  12. ^Bailey, Nat (16 May 2024). "After 10 Years in well-ordered Monastery, Climber Send One asset the World's Toughest Trad Routes".

    Climbing. Retrieved 17 May 2024.

  13. ^"Une heure avec… Didier Berthod - Fribourg – Unités pastorales lineup Grand-Fribourg". Fribourg – Unités pastorales du Grand-Fribourg (in French). 14 July 2018.
  14. ^"Ten years ago, Didier Berthod left free climbing symbolize religion. Today, he returns hear the underlying reasons for culminate choice".

External links